Date: August 5, 2017
Miles: 22 miles (35.4km), from Cache 22 to mile 1,413.
Health: Tired from lack of sleep and my feet hurt from the volcanic rock poking through the worn out bottom of my shoes.
After only a few hours of sleep, our alarms go off. I don’t feel like waking up but as we’re running out of water we have to get moving before the sun gets up. I’m so tired that instead of being organized, I just throw everything out the door and then head out myself. Once out I notice all my stuff is now dirty and covered in the yellow sand that seems to be everywhere up on the rim.
I dust everything clean, pack my pack and then we take another look at the water cache to see if there would be any water left. Nope. It’s empty. We have to make due with the water we have.
The rim is nice and flat and while a little monotonous, fast to hike through. We set out coasting, both at our own speeds and Sam’s soon far ahead. I’m doing my usual sluggish morning speed, listening to music and keeping one eye on the surrounding clouds. Unlike usually the skies are not clear blue today and we start our hike under slightly cloudy skies. I keep hoping the cloud cover would take at least some of the heat away.
We cruise along the edge of the rim and I see Sam stopping not far from me. As I get closer Sam points out a rather pissed off rattlesnake right next to the trail. I’m glad Sam was on point today as I’m way too sleepy to have ever noticed the snake. As I stupidly had both earphones on, I wouldn't even have heard it. Being reminded of the fact that we’re not the only ones out here, I turn down the volume and only wear one earphone while going around the rattling snake.
The trail feels really long and slow today. The scenery doesn’t seem to change at all and it feels like time, like the hot air, is standing still. Everything is yellow and sunburned around us, except for the occasional small trees that dot the rim here and there.
Eventually, after what seemed like an eternity, we get down from the rim and get to a lush, green valley. I find Sam on the first water source–a small little stream–where he’s stopped for an early lunch. As I don’t feel like eating yet, I fill up my water bottles, camel up a bit, and then keep on hiking.
Before I leave, we make plans to do a little side trail to Burney Mountain Guest Ranch. Sam’s parents and his brother are coming to see him there today, and they're bringing him the new shoes he's needed for a while now. I’m actually amazed he’s made it this far with the ones he currently has.
Shortly after, I cross a small river with a bunch of people fishing. It feels strange to all of a sudden pop up into a place like this, walking through parking lots and along roads, and then disappear back into the mountains. Sort of a small reminder that the civilization is never that far.
As the day progresses the heat keeps on intensifying. It is too hot again. I keep thinking that this is what it must feel like to being boiled alive. I take a look at my thermometer and it has maxed out in the sun as the scale only goes up to 120f (50c). I'm definitely not built for heat like this. I keep regretting sending my umbrella home as it would've been really useful throughout Northern California.
As there’s very little shade or water on this section, my only option is to get to the ranch as fast as possible. I keep thinking about all the ice-cold sodas I’m going to drink once I get there.
Finally, I reach the junction with instructions on how to get to the ranch. As I can’t properly focus in the heat, I just start walking to the direction of the sign. After a short and windy trail, I reach the ranch.
As soon as I arrive the owner of the ranch gives me the instructions on how to do everything and tells me all about the ranch. There’s lunch being served a little later, you can do laundry, there's a swimming pool, and a small store that operates on an honor system. After getting all the instructions I run to the store to get two ice-cold sodas–Dr. Pepper and Sunkist. Two of my favorite sodas on the trail.
I hang around on the porch with a group of other hikers and soon Sam joins us as well. Not long after his parents arrive and I join them as we drive down to the town of Burney to enjoy a little town food. There aren’t that many options but we find a nice taco truck and stuff ourselves with tacos. Sam and I do a quick resupply at the grocery store close-by and then get a ride back to the ranch.
We say goodbye to Sam’s parents and get back on the trail right as the sun is setting. Other hikers are staying in and leaving early in the morning, but we want to get a few more miles done today. It was fun seeing Sam’s parents but I keep thinking how hard it must be to just quickly see your family like this and then get back on the trail.
As we walk the road that leads us back to the highway and the PCT, I see my first skunk ever. I’ve wanted to see one for so long and finally got to see one real close. Sam advises me to keep my distance, which is probably wise.
Right after we cross the highway and rejoin the PCT the darkness falls upon us. We switch on our headlamps and keep on hiking. I can’t believe people keep saying there’s not a lot of night hiking to be done on the PCT. I feel like almost every day we end up hiking in the dark at least for a little bit.
Not far from the highway we come across some awesome trail magic. The Wild Bird Cache has water, lemonade, snacks, fruits, and all kinds of things thru-hikers need. Even seats and shade. As we’ve just spent a couple of hours resting on the ranch, we only drink a few cups of lemonade and then keep going.
We walk right after each other. This way we illuminate more of the darkness around us and it’s easier to hike. Having someone there to constantly talk to is also really great for morale in the dark.
We only hike for few miles and then reach our planned camp spot. Today was a short day but Sam got a pair of new shoes, saw his parents and his brother, and we’re a couple of miles closer to Canada again. Not a bad day. Hopefully, tomorrow won’t be as hot.