Hi, my name is Isko Salminen.
I'm an adventure seeker and I love exploring nature with my camera and Australian Shepherd called Fire

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Day 128: Another fire closure and getting off trail at Trout Lake

Date: September 4, 2017
Miles: 9.4 miles (15.1km), from mile 2,186 to trailhead at mile 2,195.5.
Health: Feeling frustrated not being able to concentrate on the hiking and having to get off trail all the time. The smoke hurts my eyes.

We wake up early with Indigo and while it's still dark, we can see everything around us is covered in smoke. Despite the smoke, this was one of the most scenic camp spots so far. Instead of hitting the trail immediately we eat breakfast and watch as the first rays of light illuminate the forest and hills down below us.

As the sun rises we see a new, smaller fire has started overnight down in the forest below. The number of fires constantly popping up around the trail is getting ridiculous.

We pack our gear and Indigo heads out first. I stay in camp a little longer so she can do some solo hiking.

We're not hiking far today as the trail is closed ahead of us due to a new fire. We have to get off the trail at mile 2,195.5 and somehow get down to the town of Trout Lake. That means we have less than 10 miles (16km) to do today.

An epic trail note for Cannonball and Storyteller.

As I get on the trail, I still have some climbing to do before reaching the top. I switch my phone off the airplane mode to check if there's reception and immediately get three bars. As it's early evening back in Finland I call my youngest brother to ask how their wedding went and to inform them about our progress here.

The reception goes on and off as I hike along the ridgeline and finally disappears as I drop down to the forest below. It feels great to speak Finnish for even a short while.

I catch up to Dandy, Fireant, and Roadrunner at the next water source and we hike out together towards the trailhead. The trail is easy and fast to hike and we soon reach the parking lot and the trailhead from where the trail onward is closed.

Siting at the trail head and wondering how to get down.

The trailhead is next to a forest road but with nothing close by. We sit down at the picnic tables to figure out what to do next. As we're sitting there, Indigo arrives. After about ten minutes a US Forest Service worker drops by and gives us more information about the closure. He also informs us that there are about 15 hikers walking down the road towards the town. He has radioed the people in town to let them know that there are hikers up here looking for rides.

Instead of a long road walk, we decide to wait.

Hiking cat on her throne.

We don't have to wait for long as two cars arrive and give us a ride to town. It's a long drive and we're happy we didn't have to walk all the way down.

As we reach the town I see a familiar figure hanging by the grocery store, Blü! We knew he was coming south towards us but now he’s in the same town at the same time as us!

As soon as we get dropped off at the gas station slash restaurant, we rush over to see Blü. It's so good to see him! We hug and go through all the trail stories from the time we've been separated.

Blü!

Trout Lake main-street.

The town is full of hikers as everyone is having to get off the trail here. Kendall is also here. The last time I saw her was the day after Sierra City, the day when Sam and I started hiking together. That's so long ago, way back in Northern California.

We head back to the restaurant to get some food and catch up on more trail gossip. The town of Trout Lake is very small, only few buildings and two businesses, the general store and the restaurant. But there are people everywhere as it's Labor Day weekend.

What most of my photos of these two look like…

Fireant and proper use of town food.

We eat and drink sodas at the restaurant and hang out with all the people we haven't seen in ages. Eventually, Cannonball and Storyteller also show up and it's like one big get-together.

We were supposed to get back on the trail but no one seems to want to leave yet. Indigo wants to hike solo still so she heads back out as everyone else gets back to the general store. We sit on the soft grass by the side of the store, tell stories and have fun.

These are the best parts of the trail!

The general store.

After hours of just laying on the grass, everyone starts to get hungry and we head back to the restaurant. We start debating whether to get back on the trail or to stay for the night. As this might be the last time we see Blü on the trail, as he's heading southbound, we feel like we should stay. Kendall goes to the road to try to hitch but as she soon comes back without any luck, I make an executive decision that we're all staying. As I don’t want to have to discuss the decision I just start running towards the general store to get beer for everyone as the store is closing in ten minutes.

As I'm in the store my phone rings and it's Sam. He's still on the trail and wondering where we are. He has road walked through the entire fire closure. I tell him everyone’s in town. As I doubt there won’t be any cars going up this late in the night I go outside to look for a trail angel who could still give him a ride back to town. I immediately find one who’s going up to take a group of hikers and ask him to give Sam a ride back down.

I take the beers and meet back with everyone. We finally get Sam to town as well and the rest of the night is spent drinking beer and hanging out on the grass beside the general store. Eventually, we all fall asleep right there on the grass.

Epic day!

Day 127: More fires and fire closures

Date: September 3, 2017
Miles: 22.3 miles (35.9km), from Rock Creek to mile 2,186.
Health: Feeling strong but the heat is really getting to me.

I wake up and it's dark around. I feel like I've slept for a long time so I check my watch – it's 1:43 am. I look up and see the thousands of stars above us between the treetops. It's so peaceful and beautiful here in the forest at night. 

My alarm goes off at 5:20 am. I hit snooze and turn around to see if the others are waking up. I don't see any movement so I quickly fall back asleep. I wake up again at 5:50 am – still no movement. We were supposed to wake up at 5:30 am but I don’t mind and quickly fall back asleep. 

Morning chores.

I wake up and it's a little past seven and people are starting to wake up. We're getting a late start today. I eat breakfast and pack up my gear. Dandelion is first out of the camp, as always, and we agree to meet up at the water source about ten miles (16km) down the trail. Roadrunner and Fireant leave next and I'm the last to leave. Before I get going I stop to take a few photos of the area around Rock Creek. I really like this spot. 

The trail continues really lush and jungle-like – it's beautiful. The trail meanders along, going around river bends and dried up creek beds. Occasionally there's some climbing but nothing too bad as the trail only gains a few thousand feet (600 meters) of elevation at a pretty easy angle. 

Rock Creek.

After an hour and a half of climbing, I come to a stream and find Indigo filtering water. She's trying to solo hike this section so I try not to spend too much time talking with her and keep moving after filling up my water bottle.

I keep climbing for another hour and reach a stream from where I stop to get more water. As I'm there, Indigo catches up. We hike together for a while and then I drop back to let her continue to hike solo.

Washington is really green.

I really like this section even though we're hiking in a green tunnel – it’s a nice change of scenery. I only wish it wasn't this hot. Washington was supposed to be cold but it feels as hot as the desert just with more air humidity. 

On one of the climbs, I get reception and check my phone. I’ve gotten multiple messages saying there's a new fire behind us. That must be the big tower of smoke we saw yesterday while climbing out of the Columbia River Gorge.

Indigo getting water.

I start seeing messages from multiple friends who’re behind us, telling they’re ok but covered in smoke and ash. And then I see an article saying around 150 hikers are trapped between the two fires on the section we just hiked three days ago. That's bad! Sadly there's nothing we can do but to hike on and hope everyone is safe and okay. 

The fires this year have been crazy and I’ve been constantly hoping the approaching autumn would bring some rain to put most of them out. Sadly, for both the fires and us, the heat keeps on. 

Stopping to fill up water bottles.

On top of all the fires around us, we’ve also been hearing stories about a fire on the Canadian border around the northern end of the PCT. There’s a rumor going around that they might have to close the trail up to the monument due to this fire, meaning we might not be able to finish the trail on the northern terminus. I have no words to describe how much this would suck.

I finally reach the creek we're having our lunch at and everyone's already there. I make my staple, mashed potatoes and salami, and then take a dip in the creek. Due to the late start, we need to keep moving and soon get back on the trail.

More green tunnel.

We all hike on alone and soon reach the second river. As it’s uncomfortably hot and there’s a big climb right after the river, everyone has stopped here to fill up their water bottles and to take a quick dip in the cooling water. We take another break just to get some relief from the heat but soon have to get back to hiking. Wasn’t Washington supposed to be cold?

While others cross the river and start the next big climb I take advantage of the pit toilets in the campground close by. You don’t want to pass up an opportunity to sit on a porcelain throne – even if it’s in a pit toilet.

Lunch break.

As I return to the river I meet a couple of other hikers and they tell me the trail has been closed not far ahead due to another new fire. If I didn’t know better, I’d think we’re in a bad episode of candid camera. I shake my head in disbelief and start climbing up.

The climb is long, hot, and sweaty. And it’s through a long waterless section. At some point, I catch up to Indigo and we keep climbing together. I’m sweating like crazy.

It’s starting to get late and we’re still a long way from the next water source. I definitely underestimated my water needs for this climb. It’s going to be a long and thirsty walk in the dark to the next water source.

Not long after I sip my last drops of water we cross a forest road and there’s an old lady with a pickup truck parked next to the trail. As we come up she offers us some fruits and asks if we need any water.

One of the many bridges we crossed.

There’s a saying that goes: the trail provides. I’m not a superstitious or religious person myself, but this type of thing has happened way too often and I now fully understand what the saying means. I’ve seen a friend break their hiking pole and find a discarded pole on the side of the trail the next day, another friend lose their sunglasses only to find a new pair on a rock on the next pass, saying “If we could only get ice-cold soda, cold beer, and pizza, this would be perfect” and then get all of those things the next morning in the middle of nowhere, and countless other similar instances. 

And here I am, out of water, stumbling onto a logging road up in the Cascade Mountains just as it’s getting dark and an old lady comes to my rescue and fills up my water bottles. I don’t know what else to say but to profusely thank her and think to myself – the trail provides. Again.

When ever we popped out of the green tunnel, the views were amazing.

We leave the road behind and get back to climbing. It’s starting to get dark and I’m starting to feel really weak. All of a sudden everything starts to go dark and I yell “I have to sit down” to Indigo, who’s not far ahead, and she turns around. I’ve totally bonked as I haven’t gotten enough salts during the climb. 

As I’m trying to dig more salt packages from my backpack Indigo notices a great camping spot, not five feet from where I’m sitting. I get back up to discover she found a perfect camping spot where there was not supposed to be one. It’s just big enough for two, it’s flat (we’re in the middle of a climb), and it’s next to a cliff overlooking a gorgeous forest and the rivers below us.

As the trail is closed not far from here, it’s getting dark, and we both have our water bottles full, we decide to call it a night. We stuff our faces with extra dinners as we now have too much food due to the new fire closure ahead while watching the sky turn dark and the stars to come out. Right before falling to sleep, I position my food bag between myself and the cliff right next to us. Would not be a great way to wake up.

Tomorrow we have just a short hike up to the fire closure and then we have to figure some way around this one.

Day 126: Crossing the Bridge of the Gods to Washington

Date: September 2, 2017
Miles: 19 miles (30.6km), from Cascade Locks to Rock Creek at mile 2,163.7.
Health: Feeling great. Love hiking with old friends again.

We wake up late as last night went kind of late. Cascade Locks is a cool little town and after about a month of not seeing almost no-one else outside of our small bubble, catching up with everyone was super fun.

As I’m laying inside my shelter and trying to collect my thoughts Fireant sends me a message saying they’re arriving in town soon. As I still have to do the resupply for the next six days, I need to start moving.

I quickly pack up all my gear and head back to the grocery store to once more do a resupply. Thanks to all the hikers in town doing their entire Washington resupply from this one small grocery store, the selection has gone way down from what it was yesterday. I scrape up what I can and hope it’s enough for the next six days.

My pack got heavy fast.

Still in Oregon.

Everyone else is at the restaurant by the bridge having breakfast and I quickly make my way up there. The restaurant is full of hikers and friends but I’m most excited to see Dandelion, Fireant, and Roadrunner again! We all sit together and have breakfast while looking at the view of the Bridge of the Gods right outside the window.

Soon we’ll be in Washington!

Sam, Roadrunner, Fireant, and Dandelion.

After breakfast and charging all our electronics, everyone slowly starts to head out towards the bridge as everybody wants to get to the new state. We say goodbye to Cannonball and Storyteller as they’re staying in town for another night. LL leaves a little bit earlier as she and Indigo are having this thing where they are trying to hike solo for the first time since getting on the trail.

As Indigo stays back in the restaurant and LL has already left, I hike out with Dandelion, Fireant, Roadrunner, and Sam. We walk the short walk up on the bridge, hesitate for a bit, make sure everyone’s together, and then start making our way across. I’ve never been this happy to cross a bridge.

Thunder Island – where we spend the whole day yesterday.

It’s a strange and kind of dangerous to walk on the bridge as there’s no path for foot traffic. The bridge is quite narrow and we’re forced to walk between all the cars. Thankfully all drivers give us as much space as they can.

And then we’re in Washington – the last of the three states on the PCT.

The author finally in Washington.

We stop for a short photo session with the bridge and the Washington state sign and then find the small path where the trail continues again. Almost immediately Washington starts kicking our asses.

Columbia River Gorge is the lowest point of the PCT and to get back up on the crest, we have a 10 mile (16km) long climb ahead of us. To add insult to the injury, our packs are heavy with a six-day food carry and since there’s no water for the next 11 miles while climbing up in the midday heat, we have to carry quite a bit of water.

We made it to Washington!

For the first few miles the trail stays under tree cover but it’s still over 95 degrees (35c). As we climb higher the forest opens up and crossing the open areas in the direct sun is quite brutal and I’m sweating buckets in the burning sun.

Only 507.2 miles (816.2km) to go!

The start of the trail in Washington.

We finally reach the water source and after filling our bottles start climbing back up. We cross paths with some trail runners who are running a 50k competition. Soon we come to an aid station for the runners and the people running the station offer us trail magic. Getting to sit under a shade and drink ice cold drinks is quite heavenly in this heat. For some reason I thought Washington would be cold and rainy.

Getting some trail magic!

Once we reach the top of the climb Fireant and I turn to look back towards the river gorge and see a massive tower of smoke across the river. While there were a couple of small wildfires in that direction, this smoke is way bigger and looks brand new.

(We later learn this was the moment Eagle Creek fire started).

Smoke from the Eagle Creek fire.

While doing another long climb I start feeling really bonked out. I instantly notice that my salt levels are low due to all the sweating. There’s not much I can do as I didn’t bring any electrolytes since I wasn’t expecting to sweat so much as I thought Washington was the coldest and rainiest state. Thankfully Fireant is close-by and saves me with some Mio Electrolytes. I chuck half a liter of the drink mix down and almost instantly start feeling better.

Sam’s feeling low on energy too and he stops to eat while we continue hiking. To pass the time we talk about Dandy and Fireant coming to Finland next summer and plan what we’d do there. How awesome would it be if that would happen!

Everyone’s stopping to get water.

The sad part about getting to Washington is that it feels like we can already start to see the end of the trail and the entire adventure. One can’t help but think what will happen once the trail ends. On the other hand we reach the goal we’ve spend the last five months walking towards, but at the same time, it means the end of an amazing adventure. And most significantly, saying goodbye to all the awesome people you’ve met along the trail.

But we have still plenty of miles to cover. Soon we reach a nice river and fill up our water bottles. The trail here is beautiful–lush and green–kind of like a rainforest. I feel like I’m walking in the forests of Endor.

We hike a little down along the river and find a gorgeous spot up on a small hill overlooking the trail. The ground is soft from all the pine needles and it’s a perfect spot for cowboy camping.

We set up camp and I try to keep an eye on the trail for Sam. I’ve left my hiking pole next to the trail so he could see it in case I don’t notice him. Usually, it doesn’t take him this long to eat so I go down and ask some of the other hikers if they’ve seen him and they say Sam went by about 45 minutes ago – dang! Hopefully he doesn’t go too far and we can catch him in the morning.

As we made it to camp a bit earlier, I take the extra time to wash my socks and shorts and take a small dip in the river downstream.

We go to bed early but I stay up late and just stare up towards the sky, looking at the beautiful night sky and the thousands of stars above us. It’s moments like these I love being out here. It’s good to be in Washington.

Day 125: Cascade Locks – The end of Oregon and the beginning of Washington

Date: September 1, 2017
Miles: 10.5 miles (16.9km), from mile 2,134.1 to town of Cascade Locks.
Health: Well rested and feeling good.

I wake up to the sound of the girls playing Jennifer Hudson’s “And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going” from their phone. It’s still pitch black in the forest but the light of the sun is slowly starting to come through the trees. We cowboy camped right on the trail and while it was a bit cramped and uneven, I feel amazing and well-rested.

My view when waking up.

Today is a big day for us! Not only is today a town day but we’re also arriving at the town of Cascade Locks, meaning we have hiked the state of Oregon and will be arriving on the Oregon – Washington border. That means later today we have hiked two of the three states of the PCT. Only around 450 miles (724 km) of Washington standing between us and the Canadian border!

Our little pile on the trail.

Everyone’s in an extra good mood and we take a little longer to enjoy the beautiful sunrise. Soon we’re back hiking and the trail couldn’t be more beautiful. The girls and Sam are really pushing it and I have a bit of a hard time keeping up with them. My knees have been acting up lately and it takes a while for my muscles to warm up in the morning.

Hiking with the first rays of light.

Soon we pop out of the forest and get our first views of the Columbia River Gorge below us. The Columbia River Gorge separates the Oregon and Washington states and reaching the Bridge of the Gods along the river is one of the major milestones of a PCT thru-hike.

So far I’ve been nothing but smiles but the trail quickly starts descending towards the river and the steep decline is killing my knees. I have to slow down as each step hurts so bad and soon I lose the sight of Sam and the girls. The downhill feels like an eternity and I find it hard to enjoy the gorgeous scenery and all the little waterfalls along the trail.

Our first view of the Columbia River Gorge.

Finally, after what felt like an agonizing eternity, I reach the outskirts of the town and the steep downhill ends. My knees sigh in relief as I walk under the highway and reach the town center.

My first priority is to do the resupply for the entire state of Washington. I’m in a bit of a rush as today is Friday and I have to buy food for the next 17 days, package it and mail it all before the Post Office closes. If I can’t get all of it done by today, as next Monday is Labor Day, the next time the Post Office will be open is Tuesday. I really can’t wait for four extra days.

LL and Sam.

I get to the grocery store and try to guestimate what 17 days' worth of food would look like. Lots of mashed potatoes and candy. I leave all my food with some of the hikers outside the grocery store and head to the Post Office across the street to get boxes for the food. I’m told they’re all out of boxes so I have to head back to the store. Thankfully they find some empty boxes from the back and I get to start dividing up all the food for each section.

As I’m running out of time, I just dump and divide all the food into the boxes and run back across the street to the Post Office. After labeling and addressing all the boxes and paying for the postal fees I’m finally done with the Washington resupply. I’m definitely not a fan of sending food resupplies. It’s expensive, takes too much time and effort, and I have no idea what I want to eat in two weeks.

Sam and a pile of backpacks.

After all the resupply stuff I ask for my bounce box which I had shipped here earlier. The bounce box holds all my rain gear and mid-layers I need as the Washington section is notoriously rainy and as the autumn is getting closer the air is getting colder. Sadly they tell me my bounce box hasn’t arrived.

As the Post Office is closing I have no option but to ask them to bounce my box to the next town and hope it will be there once I get there.

After all the running around I’m super hungry and head to the Ale House for a combined breakfast and lunch. I meet some hikers I’ve seen before and we share a table.

This place is known for free beer for PCT hikers and their Hiker Trash Burger. The Hiker Trash Burger is a burger and bacon sandwiched between two small salami pizzas and it looks just as gross as it sounds. I had to order one!

Can’t get much more American than this.

The Hiker Trash Burger.

After stuffing my face with what I can only assume is a massive amount of salt, grease, and calories, Sam and the girls soon arrive. As they’re hungry and I don’t want to be the only one not eating I order extra fries and a small burger as an appetizer. Hiker hunger is real.

We chill at the Ale House for quite some time but then decide we need some fresh air. We get some chips and PBR (cheap beer) from the store and head out to the Thunder Island along the Columbia River. For the next few hours, we lay on the soft grass, relax, enjoy the sun, and watch all the boats go by.

LL and some quality beer.

Thunder Island.

As the sun is starting to set, we pack up all our gear and head to the campground in the middle of the town and set up our tents. Cascade Locks is a dream town for us hikers. Everything is within a walking distance, there are great breweries around every corner, and there’s a campground right in the center of the town along the riverfront.

After the sun has gone down we message Cannonball and Storyteller and join them and few other hikers at the Thunder Island brewery. There’s good music and food, and the rest of the evening is quite blurry. I just remember laughing a lot.

The Bridge of the Gods.

But since we’re all hikers, we can’t really drink too much or stay up too late so we all soon start heading back to the campground. I don’t feel like going to sleep yet so I take my camera and a couple of leftover PBR’s and walk to the river to take some night shots of the Bridge of the Gods. Sam soon joins me and we have another late night chat while drinking beer and watching all the stars above the river.

We soon run out of beer and both of us are getting sleepy so it’s time to call it a day. We head back to our tents, say good night to the girls, and go to sleep. What an epic day today was!

Day 124: Waterfalls and trail closures

Date: August 31, 2017
Miles: 30.2 miles (48.6km), from Sandy River to Benson Camp junction at mile 2,134.1.
Health: Feeling good and motivated. Feels good to be on the trail.

We wake up before the sun rises, pack all our gear and hike the remaining mile to the Ramona Falls. The falls aren’t actually on the PCT but visiting them adds so little extra mileage that it’s well worth the little side trip.

Due to the early start and sleeping so close to the falls, we arrive there so early that we have the falls all to ourselves. We take a ton of photos and pose for our yet-to-be-released album cover under the falls. The falls are gorgeous but we have a full day ahead of us so we march on. We want to reach the city of Cascade Locks by tomorrow and that means we need to do about 30 miles (48.3km) today.

Indigo, LL, and Sam chilling by the Ramona Falls.

Cascade Locks is our last town in Oregon and the gateway to Washington over the Bridge of Gods. Compared to how long it took us to cover California, Oregon has been a breeze. Granted, we’ve had to skip a good portion of the trail due to all the fire closures but still.

The loop trail which gets us back to the PCT from the Ramona Falls is also really pretty. The path feels like we’re in a fairytale as we walk between little mossy hills and old-growth trees. I don’t enjoy walking in a green tunnel that much but this I like!

Easy river crossing.

As the loop trail is much wider than the PCT, we can walk side-by-side and this makes talking within a group so much easier. We talk about weird songs and I soon learn that I have a massive hole in my music knowledge as the girls teach me the lyrics to the Safety Dance by Men Without Hats. How have I not heard about this song before?

We soon join the PCT again and everyone kind of goes back to doing their own thing. I hike mostly alone but catch up to LL and Sam when they’re crossing a river over two fallen trees.

Leg show.

After the exciting morning, the rest of the day feels kind of slow. Some days you feel like you’re not making any progress and today’s one of those. The trail is pretty uneventful and doesn’t have many views other than Mt. Hood occasionally popping up between the trees.

Looking back towards Mt. Hood.

After more time in the forest, I stumble out of the forest on to a forest road and find everyone enjoying some trail magic. We enjoy sitting in chairs and some fresh fruits and vegetables. I also join some of the guys and end up downing a couple of beers – not the greatest decision. As I haven’t had much alcohol in a long time, I get an instant buzz which isn’t so nice when you have a mountain to climb in the mid-day heat.

Trail magic!

After the trail magic the trail climbs up and the views get much nicer. Hiking along the top of the mountains on the ridgeline is exactly the kind of hiking I came here to do. My mood gets instantly better and the light buzz I was feeling earlier disappears.

At some point I notice a smoke bloom appear down to the left of the trail, on the opposite side of the valley. From where I’m standing it doesn’t look big until I see the helicopters and see how tiny they are in comparison to the smoke. The fire doesn’t look too bad but, oh boy, what a year it has been.

Trail closure preventing us to from doing the Eagle Creek side-trail.

Soon the trail dips back down to the forest and I find Sam and LL on a snack break by a small lake. The same lake is used by the helicopters to get water to put out the fire I just saw. Indigo soon arrives as well and we eat while watching the helicopters fly back and forth.

Snacks make you tired.

We leave as the sun is starting to set and we still have miles to cover. The trail stays lower and we occasionally get a good view of the fire we saw earlier. It has spread a little but looks to be mainly smoldering now. If there’s something positive about all the smoke from the fires it’s that the sunsets are absolutely gorgeous. Again we watch all the yellow and pinkish hues of the sky as the sun slowly drops below the horizon.

We put our headlamps on and keep walking.

Watching the sun go down.

After walking so much in the dark we often opt to walk as close to each other as we can. This way we have more light around us and you don’t feel as surrounded by the darkness as you’d feel just by yourself. This also makes for some good storytimes and today is no exception. We hike long into the night and amuse ourselves with all kinds of stories.

Smoke from the wildfire.

Well past midnight we finally reach the 30-mile marker and decide to call it a night. Sadly there aren’t any camp spots close by so after some searching we end up camping right on a small side-trail intersecting with the PCT. As there’s no room to set up anything we all just pile up together on a small flat part of the trail and cowboy camp on the dirt.

Today was a long day but it was well worth it. We had fun and tomorrow we’re done with Oregon. Only one more state left!

Day 123: Mt. Hood and Timberline Lodge

Date: August 30, 2017
Miles: 9.6 miles (15.4km), from Timberline Lodge to Sandy River at mile 2,103.9.
Health: Feeling really fresh, motivated, and well rested.

I wake up late, around 8 am, and hear the others are already up. It was hard falling asleep last night as I haven't done any kind of physical activity for the past couple of days. My body is so used to hiking long days that just walking around town and doing city chores is not enough activity to tire me out.

Indigo makes us all a really good breakfast and as Kenny plays us some Ween on the stereos, we pack our gear and start heading out. Today we need to get from Bend to Timberline Lodge at Mt. Hood. As the trail is closed due to wildfires, Kenny has graciously offered to drive us there. It's about two and a half-hour drive one way.

Rico keeping an eye on us while we pack the car.

We load all five of us, plus our gear, into the car and start driving. The air is really bad today. There's no visibility and the smoke is hurting my eyes.

The drive goes by quick and we soon start seeing the shape of Mt. Hood between the smoke. As we get closer the air suddenly clears up and we see blue sky. It feels so good to be able to properly breathe again.

Blue skies at Timberline Lodge.

The Timberline Lodge is famous among thru-hikers for the all-you-can-eat breakfast and lunch buffet. We missed the breakfast but after the drive from Bend, we're all ready for lunch. The Lodge is also famous for being the place where they shot some of the exterior shots for the movie The Shining.

As we drive up to the lodge the place looks amazing! The massive wooden building stands right below Mt. Hood with views towards the mountain, and down towards Mt. Jefferson far in the distance. I'm so glad that the air is clearer today and we can see the views around us.

The random tourist I asked to take a photo of us didn’t think our dirty feet should be included in the photo.

As we go inside the lodge, we discover it's built like a maze. On the way here I messaged with Cannonball and Storyteller and I know they're both here, I just can't find them as getting anywhere is like a miniature puzzle. Eventually, I pump into Storyteller on one of the many staircases and we hug and exchange trail stories. She's heading down but tells me Cannonball is right up the same staircase.

I climb up and find Cannonball sitting there. She’s wearing her headphones so I get to surprise her. I've missed these two for so long. They've left me messages on the trail registers along the way and we finally caught up.

Surprising Cannonball.

Cannonball and Storyteller have already eaten so they stay back while everyone else heads towards the lunch buffet. We get our table and just a quick glance towards the food selection tells us this is going to be pretty awesome.

Getting ready to double our weight at the lunch buffet.

For the next few hours, we stuff our faces with all the delicious foods and deserts the restaurant offers – it's so good! Having the hiker hunger really comes handy at places like this.

After lunch, we wander around the lodge for a while and then Kenny needs to head back to Bend. We thank him for his help and say our goodbyes.

Kenny had to leave.

We should get back on the trail as well but none of us want to leave this place so soon. A day doesn’t feel like enough time to enjoy the lodge and I really want to come back here again. Preferably during winter!

To get the most out of the Lodge we go get drinks at the bar, play some table tennis, goof around with the axe from The Shining and just wander around the place.

“Here's Johnny!”

The tempo of our hike has changed a bit and this allows us to spend a little bit more time in places like this. Due to all the fire-closures and having to skip around them, we went from being in a rush to get to Canada before winter, to having more than enough time to comfortably make it.

Playing shuffleboard.

We've all realized that in less than a month this epic adventure is coming to an end and as that happens, we all need to go back to our regular lives. While for the past four months I've dreamed of nothing but reaching the monument, now, as it's getting closer, I don't want the hike to end so soon. I want to keep this adventure going, seeing new places every day, and spending every single moment of the day in the beautiful wilderness. And most of all, I want to keep having fun with all the wonderful people I've had the privilege and pleasure to share this trail with.

Mt. Hood and the author.

I know that once we reach the monument and have our celebrations, we might have a few days together in Vancouver, and then everyone slowly but surely starts heading back to their homes. Some of us go back to Europe, some to Australia, and most to different states around the US. And I'm going to miss all these people so much.

Sam ducking under a downed tree.

When you hike with someone day in and day out for months on end, you get to know them on a deeper level. You see people at their truest selves, at their weakest moments, when they’re absolutely exhausted and tired, and at the highest of their highs. And you have nothing but time to talk all day. You feel a different kind of connection with the people you hike with than you could ever form with anyone in normal life.

Sam, Indigo, and LL enjoying the setting sun.

But now it's time for us to get back on the trail. Cannonball and Storyteller stay back at the lodge and we meet either later in the evening on the trail, or at Cascade Locks the day after tomorrow. Indigo, LL, Sam, and I head back on the trail.

Mt. Hood from the camp.

The trail follows around the base of Mt. Hood and it's really easy to walk on. We make quick miles and run into a lot of day and section hikers along the way. The scenery is beautiful and the trail well-graded, no wonder there are so many people on the trail.

We wanted to do a little over 10 miles to the Ramona Falls but run out of daylight and decide to camp just under a mile short along a gorgeous river, looking up on Mt. Hood. We set up for the night, eat dinner and tell stories until it gets dark and then fall asleep under the starry skies while listening to the sounds of the river.

I'm going to miss moments like these.

Days 120 – 122: Bend

Date: August 27 – 29, 2017
Miles: -
Health: Well rested. 

After a good night's sleep under the sink in the small two-person motel room the five of us shared, we all have breakfast and then head out to wander around the city of Bend. Our first stop is visiting the local REI for some gear purchases. I need to replace my shorts as they’re pretty much destroyed at this point and I’m afraid they’ll rip apart at any moment.

We ride around town on Uber and spend all day in different outdoor shopping malls and restaurants. People here seem to enjoy outdoors, good food and beer. I could definitely see myself living here. The proximity to the surrounding beautiful mountains doesn’t hurt.

The Crux Brewery – one of my favorite breweries in Bend.

The Patagonia Strider Pro shorts are all sold-out at REI so while we’re eating at a taco place close to the city center, I visit the Patagonia store close by and find the shorts but only in size small. They’re a bit tight but have to do as for some reason the Strider Pro’s are sold out everywhere.

We spend the day doing nothing particular but it’s just so much fun to hang out with everyone again. To finish the day we stuff our faces full with burgers and milkshakes at the Five Guys next to our motel and then head back to our room to watch some Netflix.

On the left my old worn-out shorts, on the right my new ones.

The next morning Dandy, Fireant, Roller, and Roadrunner head back out to the trail. I’m staying back as I promised Sam and the girls I’d wait for them in Bend. It’s hard to say goodbye to everyone as it took me so long to finally catch up to them, but I also miss Sam, Indigo, and LL.

I decide to stay at the same motel for the next night as there are good stores for resupplying close by, and the Five Guys next door. I wander around town for a bit and meet some trail friends for lunch. In the evening I visit the Five Guys again and stuff myself full. With the milkshake to-go, I head back to the motel to rest and work on some blog posts.

Having breakfast alone.

Lunch with Yoav (one part of the Jew Grew).

The next morning I do a gear shakedown and get rid of some extra gear I have no use for anymore, like the Thermarest Z Lite sleeping pad. I don’t like how the Z Lite fits inside the Pa’lante so I’ve carried a torso length part of the 1/8’’ Thinlight pad since Sierra as my back panel for my backpack.

I don’t like how the Z Lite sits on top of my backpack so I’m opting to sleep solely on the 1/8’’ (3mm) Thinlight. I’m a little hesitant about how well I’ll sleep on such a thin pad, but the best way to find out is to have no other option.

What happens when I leave my camera on the table while visiting toilet. Topo and LL.

Soon I get a message from Sam telling me they’re on their way to Bend. Indigo’s family friend lives in Bend and they’ve offered to take us all in. They pick me up and we head to Jenny and Kenny’s place. They live a little outside the center in a beautiful house. While the others do all their off-trail chores, I take the opportunity to play with Jenny and Kenny’s dog Rico.

Me and Rico.

These guys floss every night.

Rico daydreaming about chasing rabbits.

After everyone’s reasonably clean, we head back to town and visit the breweries and get our resupplies done for the next section. While we come out of the grocery store the air is suddenly covered in smoke. The wind changed its direction and blew all the smoke from the wildfires over the city. It gets hard to breathe and nobody wants to spend any time outdoor. We go to bed early and get ready for getting back on the trail tomorrow.